What is cosmetic formulation and what does the process look like?
Cosmetic formulation is the process of developing a product's recipe — defining the ingredients, their concentrations, texture, stability, and efficacy. The process starts with a brief: the desired product type, skin benefits, texture, and target market. A cosmetic formulator then creates initial samples, which are tested and refined through multiple iterations. Once the formula is approved, the full quantitative and qualitative composition is documented, INCI list is prepared, and the formula is validated for manufacturing. A complete formulation process typically includes concept development, sampling rounds, stability testing, and regulatory review.
What is the difference between an independent cosmetic formulator and a manufacturer's in-house chemist?
An independent cosmetic formulator works across multiple brands and categories, which gives them broader market exposure and creative freedom. They are not tied to a single factory's available raw materials or equipment constraints, meaning they can select the best ingredients for the formula rather than the most convenient ones for production. A manufacturer's in-house chemist is optimized for that factory's existing setup — which often limits innovation and ingredient choice. For brands that want a genuinely differentiated product, working with an independent formulator before going to production typically delivers better results.
How much does cosmetic formulation services cost and how long does it take?
The cost of developing a cosmetic formula depends on the product complexity, number of sampling rounds, and the scope of regulatory deliverables included. Simple formulas — such as body lotions or shower gels — are less resource-intensive than active-ingredient serums or SPF products. At Cleansery, the formulation package includes up to 5 revision rounds, with each additional round priced at 150 PLN. Timelines vary: straightforward formulations can be completed in 6 to 10 weeks, while complex or multi-active formulas may take 3 to 5 months including stability testing. A cost calculation per kg of formula and per finished unit is included in the deliverables.
Who owns the formula after development — the brand or the formulator?
This depends entirely on the contract. With many manufacturers and independent formulators, the formula remains their intellectual property — meaning the brand cannot take it to another supplier without starting from scratch. At Cleansery, full transfer of copyright and economic rights to the formula is included as standard in every formulation project. The brand receives complete ownership of the formula upon project completion, with no restrictions on where or how it is manufactured.
What is an INCI list and what regulatory documents are required to sell cosmetics in the EU?
INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the standardized system for listing cosmetic ingredients on product labels, required by EU Cosmetics Regulation No. 1223/2009. Every cosmetic product sold in the EU must have an INCI list, a Product Information File (PIF), a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) prepared by a qualified safety assessor, and must be notified in the CPNP (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal) before going to market. Marketing claims must also be substantiated and comply with EU guidelines on cosmetic claims. Cleansery's formulation service includes INCI preparation, marketing claim development, and label compliance review as part of the standard package.
What is custom cosmetic formulation and when does a brand need it?
Custom cosmetic formulation — also called bespoke formulation — means developing a product formula specifically for one brand, with a unique ingredient combination that no other brand uses. It is the right choice when a brand needs a genuinely differentiated product, wants to own a proprietary formula, or is targeting a specific efficacy claim that off-the-shelf white label products cannot support. Brands that rely on white label products share formulas with competitors. Custom formulation is the foundation of a defensible, long-term product portfolio.






