In the fight against hyperpigmentation, synergy is key. Properly selected ingredients can enhance each other, work at different skin levels, and deliver real results. Here are the most effective ones – with a brief guide to inspire you to create your own product:
1. Tranexamic acid
The real star of recent years. It acts as an anti-inflammatory, inhibits the release of the PAF factor responsible for activating melanocytes, and reduces the visibility of hyperpigmentation without irritating the skin.
2. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
A multitasking ingredient that not only brightens but also strengthens the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier, soothes inflammation, and prevents hyperpigmentation from returning. Ideal in combination with Vitamin C and acids.
3. Kojic acid
Effectively inhibits the activity of tyrosinase – the enzyme crucial in the melanogenesis process. It reduces the visibility of hyperpigmentation and brightens the skin, while being gentler than hydroquinone.
4. Azelaic acid
Particularly effective for melasma and post-acne hyperpigmentation. It has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and mildly exfoliating properties – perfect for problematic and sensitive skin.
💎 Other active ingredients worth considering:
5. Mandelic acid
A gentle AHA with a large molecule – works on the surface, exfoliates the epidermis, brightens the skin, and improves its texture. Great for sensitive skin and those prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
6. Glycolic acid
An AHA with the smallest molecule – this allows it to penetrate deeper and strongly stimulate cell renewal. It removes dead skin cells, reveals a lighter skin layer, and increases the effectiveness of other ingredients.
7. Salicylic acid (BHA)
Fat-soluble – penetrates the pores, acts as an anti-inflammatory and exfoliant. It supports the fight against post-acne hyperpigmentation and improves skin texture.
8. Arbutin
A natural ingredient derived from bearberry. It inhibits melanin synthesis and gently brightens the complexion without causing irritation. It works gently but effectively.
9. Resveratrol and other antioxidants
They provide protection, preventing the formation of new hyperpigmentation at the cellular level. They support regeneration and brighten the skin.
10. Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid and derivatives)
A powerful antioxidant that brightens, protects against oxidative stress, and supports collagen production. It works best when combined with acids and niacinamide.
Note: When using lightening products, always apply an SPF 50 sunscreen! Without this, the results may be short-lived or, worse, worsen the situation.
🧴 What about the base of the cosmetic?
Active ingredients are not everything. Equally important is how we deliver them. The formula of the emulsion, pH, carriers (e.g., liposomes, nanoparticles), and the type of technology used (e.g., liquid crystal structure) all impact the effectiveness and comfort of the product.
And this is what we work on every day – designing cosmetics that are not only effective but also safe and pleasant to use.
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